Living in Riyadh

About Riyadh

Riyadh is a sprawling desert capital that has transformed from a walled mud-brick city into one of the Middle East's most dynamic metropolises. Home to the headquarters of Saudi Aramco, SABIC, and major government ministries, it is the Kingdom's engine of economic growth. Vision 2030 mega-projects such as King Abdullah Financial District, Diriyah Gate, and the Riyadh Metro are reshaping the city. With a young, diverse population and an expanding entertainment sector, Riyadh is increasingly attractive to international professionals and investors.

Saudi Arabia's capital and largest city, Riyadh is the political, economic, and administrative center of the Kingdom. A rapidly modernizing metropolis at the heart of Vision 2030, it offers world-class career opportunities and a growing quality of life.

Located in Riyadh Region, Riyadh is home to 7.7 million residents. The local economy runs on oil & gas (upstream management), finance & banking, government & public sector, information technology, construction & real estate, defense & military, retail & e-commerce, and the city has become a draw for international professionals looking for tax-free salaries and a growing quality of life. The expat community here numbers around 2+ million expats people, primarily from Indian, Pakistani, Filipino, Egyptian.

For expats considering a move, Riyadh has clear upsides. Largest job market in Saudi Arabia with diverse opportunities. Headquarters of major Saudi and international companies. No income tax on salaries. The flip side is worth knowing too: Extreme summer heat exceeding 45°C. Sprawling city requiring a car for most daily activities. None of this is a dealbreaker, but it helps to go in with realistic expectations. If you are in the early stages of planning, start with our guide to moving to Saudi Arabia and check the visa requirements for your nationality.

Where to Eat in Riyadh

Riyadh's food scene has exploded in recent years. The city went from a handful of traditional restaurants to one of the most exciting dining destinations in the Gulf, with everything from hole-in-the-wall kabsa joints to Michelin-worthy fine dining. Whatever you eat, start the way locals do: with Arabic coffee and dates. Every meal, every meeting, every visit to someone's home begins with a small cup of light, cardamom-spiced coffee and a few pieces of fresh dates. It is the Saudi way of saying welcome.

Local dishes you should try include Kabsa (the national dish - spiced rice with cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, and dried lime, topped with chicken or lamb, 25-40 SAR), Mandi (similar to kabsa but the meat is smoked in a tandoor-style pit, giving it a distinctive smoky flavor, 30-50 SAR), Jareesh (crushed wheat cooked slowly with meat and broth until it becomes a thick, savory porridge, 20-35 SAR), Mutabbaq (stuffed savory pancake filled with minced meat, egg, and onions, folded and fried on a flat griddle, 5-15 SAR), and Saleeg (creamy white rice cooked in milk and broth, served with roasted chicken on top, 30-45 SAR).

Restaurant Recommendations

Some places worth trying: Najd Village in Sulaimaniyah (built to look like a traditional najdi village with mud-brick walls and low cushion seating, 120-180 SAR for two), Al Romansiah (the most popular saudi restaurant chain, 35-60 SAR per person), Al Baik (saudi fast-food chain with cult following, Under 20 SAR), Takya in Diriyah Gate (elevated saudi dishes in a beautiful setting on bujairi terrace, overlooking the unesco at-turaif heritage site, 200-400 SAR per person), and Tahlia Street restaurants in Tahlia Street (riyadh's main restaurant strip with hundreds of options - lebanese, turkish, indian, japanese, italian, and everything in between, 40-150 SAR per person).

Dining Tips

A meal at a traditional Saudi restaurant costs 30-80 SAR per person. Fast food runs 15-30 SAR. Upscale dining at Diriyah Gate or top hotel restaurants costs 150-400 SAR per person.

Arabic coffee at a specialty cafe is 15-30 SAR, but at traditional restaurants it is often served free with your meal.

Most restaurants accept card payments (mada, Visa, Mastercard, Apple Pay). Tipping is appreciated but not mandatory - 10% is generous.

Many restaurants still have separate family sections (for families and women) and singles sections (for men dining alone), though this is becoming less strict.

Restaurants close briefly during the five daily prayer times, usually for 20-30 minutes. If you are already seated, you can stay, but you will not be served until prayer ends.

There is no alcohol anywhere in Saudi Arabia.

Cost of Living in Riyadh

Living costs in Riyadh are 20-30% more expensive than smaller Saudi cities, but significantly cheaper than Dubai or Abu Dhabi compared to other major cities in the Gulf. A comfortable monthly budget falls between 5,000-15,000 SAR, covering rent, food, transport, and day-to-day expenses. Compared to Dubai, you can expect to spend 30-50% less. Compared to Abu Dhabi, 20-40% less. And with zero personal income tax in Saudi Arabia, your purchasing power goes further than the numbers suggest.

Housing

Rent for a one-bedroom apartment ranges from 3,000-12,000 SAR, depending on the neighborhood and apartment quality. City center locations and modern compounds are more expensive but offer better amenities and shorter commutes. Suburban standalone apartments give you more space for less money. Most landlords expect annual rent, often paid in 1-4 post-dated checks, and utilities run about 300-700 SAR per month (electricity can spike in summer) per month. For details on how the process works, see our rental guide for Saudi Arabia.

Groceries, Food & Transport

A meal at a mid-range restaurant costs 30-150 SAR per meal. Monthly grocery shopping averages 800-1,500 SAR per month, with major supermarket chains like Tamimi, Panda, Danube, and Carrefour available. Transportation costs are Fuel is cheap (~2.3 SAR/liter); metro fares 4-7 SAR per trip - fuel is very affordable, ride-hailing through Uber and Careem works well, and most expats drive or use apps to get around.

Monthly Budget Breakdown

Use our cost of living calculator to get a personalized estimate based on your lifestyle.

Jobs & Career Opportunities

The job market in Riyadh is active, with an unemployment rate of ~5% for expats; ~11% for Saudi nationals (Saudization policies apply). Average salaries sit around 8,000-20,000 SAR (varies widely by sector and nationality), and because Saudi Arabia has no personal income tax, what you earn is what you keep. Saudization (Nitaqat) policies mean companies must hire a percentage of Saudi nationals, but many sectors still recruit heavily from abroad - especially in oil & gas (upstream management), finance & banking, government & public sector.

Major employers in Riyadh include Saudi Aramco, SABIC, Saudi Telecom Company (STC), Saudi National Bank (SNB), Al Rajhi Bank, Ministry of Defense, NEOM (project office), PwC Saudi Arabia. These companies regularly hire international talent and often provide comprehensive packages including housing, transportation allowances, annual flights home, and medical insurance for the whole family.

The fastest growing sectors are financial technology (fintech), entertainment & tourism, renewable energy, artificial intelligence, e-commerce, defense & security, healthcare, all driven by the Kingdom's Vision 2030 diversification strategy. If your skills align with any of these, you will find the job market receptive.

How to Find Work

LinkedIn is the primary recruitment channel in Saudi Arabia - update your profile with Riyadh or Saudi Arabia as your preferred location. Major recruitment agencies like Hays, Robert Half, and Michael Page operate across the Kingdom. Bayt.com, GulfTalent, and Naukrigulf are the most used regional job boards. Apply directly on company career pages for the big employers. Networking matters more here than in most places - join professional groups, attend industry events, and connect with people already working in Riyadh.

Work Culture

The work week runs Sunday to Thursday, typically 8 hours per day with reduced hours during Ramadan. You get a minimum of 21 days annual leave, increasing to 30 days after 5 years with the same employer. Typical expat packages include housing, transport, annual flights, medical insurance, and education allowances for children. When your contract ends, you receive an end-of-service gratuity based on your years of employment. For more on what to expect, read our Saudi working culture guide.

Getting Around Riyadh

Riyadh is a car city. The distances are huge, public transport is limited, and the entire urban layout was designed around highways and wide roads. If you are coming from Europe, where you can walk to the metro and take a train anywhere, you will need to adjust your expectations. In Riyadh, you either drive or you take an Uber or Careem.

Ride-hailing (Uber & Careem): The easiest option for visitors. Both apps work well, drivers arrive quickly. Careem is the local app (owned by Uber but operating separately) and tends to have slightly more drivers in some areas. Cost: 10-20 SAR for short trips, 30-50 SAR across town, 60-90 SAR from airport.

Car rental: The most flexible option, especially for attractions outside the city like Edge of the World. Major rental companies (Budget, Hertz, Sixt) operate at the airport and throughout the city. You can drive on a valid international driving permit or a license from most Western countries for up to 90 days. Cost: 100-150 SAR per day for a basic sedan, fuel ~2.3 SAR/liter.

Riyadh Metro: A massive project with six lines spanning 176 kilometers. Lines have been opening gradually. When fully operational, it will connect the airport, major business districts, Diriyah, and university campuses. Coverage is still partial. Cost: 4-7 SAR per trip.

SAPTCO buses: Some routes operate across the city, but they are slow and infrequent. Most residents and visitors do not use them. Cost: 4 SAR per trip.

Walking: Possible in specific areas like Diriyah Gate, Boulevard Riyadh City, and parts of the Diplomatic Quarter. Not realistic between neighborhoods due to distances and heat (40°C+ from May to September). Cost: Free.

King Khalid International Airport (RUH) is located about 35 km north of the city center. A ride-hailing trip to downtown costs 60-90 SAR and takes 30-50 minutes depending on traffic. The airport is served by Saudi Airlines (Saudia), flynas, flyadeal, and major international carriers.

The driving style is different from what Europeans or Americans are used to. Lane discipline is loose, cars merge aggressively, speed limits are often treated as suggestions, and last-second lane changes are normal. Indicators are used sparingly. Stay alert and give yourself extra space. The roads themselves are excellent, well-lit, and well-signposted in both Arabic and English. Most visitors adapt after a day or two.

Intercity travel: SAPTCO operates intercity bus services to Jeddah (about 10 hours), Dammam (about 4 hours), and other cities. SAR train service connects Riyadh to Dammam and the Eastern Province. Domestic flights connect Riyadh to all major Saudi cities, typically costing 200-500 SAR one-way.

Expat Life in Riyadh

Riyadh has a well-established international community of around 2+ million expats people, with the largest groups coming from Indian, Pakistani, Filipino, Egyptian, Bangladeshi, Yemeni, American, British. This is not a city where you will feel isolated. There are active expat groups, compound communities, professional networks, and social clubs that make it straightforward to build a social life from scratch.

Local groups like Riyadh Expats, InterNations Riyadh, Riyadh Professionals Network, Saudi Tech Meetup, Riyadh Entrepreneurs organize regular social events, cultural activities, and networking opportunities. Compound living provides built-in community with sports leagues, family events, and shared facilities. If you live independently, online communities on Facebook and WhatsApp are the fastest way to connect with other expats in your area.

Riyadh is the cultural heartbeat of Najdi traditions, known for its deep-rooted Arabian hospitality, traditional souqs like Souq Al Zal, and Ardah sword dances. The city is experiencing a cultural renaissance with the opening of concert venues, cinemas, international exhibitions, and the annual Riyadh Season entertainment festival that attracts millions of visitors.

Healthcare

Riyadh has the most advanced healthcare infrastructure in Saudi Arabia, including King Faisal Specialist Hospital, King Fahad Medical City, and numerous private hospitals such as Dr. Sulaiman Al Habib and Saudi German Hospital. Most major hospitals have English-speaking staff and cater to international patients. Employer-provided medical insurance is mandatory by law, and most private hospitals and clinics have English-speaking staff. Emergency services are available around the clock, and pharmacies are well-stocked and often open late.

Education

Riyadh has 5 major universities, including King Saud University (top-ranked in KSA), Alfaisal University (private, research-focused), Princess Nourah bint Abdulrahman University (largest women's university in the world), Imam Mohammad Ibn Saud Islamic University. For expat families, international schools offering British, American, IB, and other curricula are available, along with nurseries and early childhood centers. School fees vary widely, but many employer packages include an education allowance.

Your First Month

When you first arrive, the priority list is straightforward: get your iqama (residence permit) processed through your employer, open a Saudi bank account, register on the Absher platform for government services, get a Saudi SIM card (STC, Mobily, or Zain), and either convert your driving license or start the process of getting a Saudi driving license. Most of this can be sorted within the first few weeks if your employer's PRO (public relations officer) is on top of things.

Climate & Practical Information

Summers in Riyadh are extremely hot and dry, 40-50°c / 104-122°f from june to september, while winters are mild and pleasant, 10-25°c / 50-77°f from november to february with cool nights. The city experiences very low, ~100mm annually; occasional heavy rain in winter can cause flash flooding. The best time to visit or move is between October and April when the weather is most pleasant.

Popular destinations near Riyadh include Edge of the World (Jebel Fihrayn), Diriyah (UNESCO World Heritage Site), Wadi Hanifah, Ushaiger Heritage Village, Red Sand Dunes (Al Kharrarah), Al Wahbah Crater. These are accessible for day trips or weekend getaways and give you a sense of the region beyond the city itself.

Useful Contacts

Emergency services: 911 (Riyadh and Eastern Province) or 999 (other regions). Traffic Police: 993. Ambulance: 997. Fire: 998. Essential apps include Absher (government services), Tawakkalna (digital ID), and your bank's app for managing payments through the mada network.